Say cheese! Why these backroads are so beautiful (and 9 other fun facts)

Among cyclists, Sardinia isn't as well known as Southern European hotspots like Mallorca or the Spanish costas. So let's do a quick course: 10 things you may or may not know about this island, including lots of stuff that comes in handy during future rides.

1. Fluttering at the beach, printed on keychains and other tourist trinkets, Ichnusa beer labels and local cycling club jerseys—the distinctive, official Sardinian flag is everywhere. There is no consensus regarding the origins of this white banner featuring a red cross and four Moorish heads. The most famous legend says that the Spanish brought the flag with them after the Battle of Alcoraz (1096); Saint George, bearing his red-and-white coat of arms, reportedly came to the aid of King Pedro I on the battlefield, where the heads of four Moorish kings were discovered afterward. In 1999, a law was passed mandating that the four heads must face right rather than left.

2. What are those mysterious towers you see everywhere across the Sardinian landscape during your rides? Officially, more than seven thousand of these nuraghes — dating back to the Bronze Age and reaching up to 20 meters — have been cataloged. Over 3,000 years later, sometimes the remains are little more than a pile of stones, yet in many places nuraghes still stand relatively intact. Scientists cannot say for certain what purpose the structures served, but given their frequent location on hills and other strategic points, they likely had a military function. Nuraghes shouldn’t be confused with the watchtowers scattered along the Sardinian coast; those were built by the Aragonese as late as the fourteenth century. Modern stuff!

3. Why would you hire me to map out your cycling routes when there are plenty of apps that let you do it yourself? Well, for instance because Rotte Sarde knows the backroads that other cyclists overlook — roads that are therefor missing from the algorithms and heatmaps of platforms like Strava and Komoot. And the great thing about backroads in Sardinia is that they are often in great condition. The explanation? Cheese! Farmers are required to keep their farms easily accessible for the daily tanker truck that collects the sheep's milk for the famous pecorino sardo. That is why you can often cycle on beautiful asphalt in the countryside, encountering nothing more than the occasional puttering Piaggio or a flock of sheep.

4. You will inevitably come across them while looking for accommodation for your cycling trip in Sardinia: agriturismos — places where you can eat and sleep on a farm. Back in the 1980s, the concept wanted to provide farmers with extra income and thereby curb the exodus from rural areas. They’re now everywhere throughout Italy. Most agriturismos offer dinner, rooms and breakfast, though some focus exclusively on the culinary part. Sunday lunch is a true phenomenon: entire families gather for a ritual that often lasts into the late afternoon. It is also ideal for hungry cyclists, as — for a often modest price — you are served an abundant and rich meal made from the farm's own produce.

5. Speaking of food, one of the biggest pitfalls for unsuspecting foreign cyclists is thinking they can dine whenever they please — simply whenever hunger strikes. That is not how things work in Sardinia, however, where tradition matters and people prefer to stick to the ways things have always been done. Opening hours for restaurants are quite strict: lunch is served between 12:30 and 14:30, while dinner generally isn't available before 20:00. Furthermore, pizza usually isn’t served at lunchtime, although there are certainly tourist-oriented exceptions to the rule. In such places, you might even be able to order a cappuccino afterwards…

6. And speaking of drinks: no matter how small or deserted a village in Sardinia might be, as a thirsty cyclist you will almost always find a bar there. They are welcome spots to take a break, especially during a ride through the sparsely populated interior. You can use the restroom, refill your water bottles (Sardinian tap water is generally excellent to drink), and order a perfect espresso for around 1.20 euros. Add a fresh croissant to go with it and you’re all set for the rest of your ride. Just bear in mind that you’ll often find the doors locked around midday, as the bartender naturally takes a proper lunch break at the traditional times.

7. Partly due to logistical complications, the professional peloton rarely races on Sardinian roads. That will finally change in 2028, when the Vuelta visits the island. Italy’s own Giro d’Italia has visited Sardinia only four times: in 1961, 1991, 2007, and 2017. That last year saw 'La Grande Partenza' take place in Alghero, setting the stage for Tom Dumoulin’s overall victory. The Giro Donne started in Sardinia in 2022, while the 2023 edition concluded there; Annemiek van Vleuten (right) won on both occasions.

8. The Sardinian flag is also reflected in the nickname of the island’s most famous cyclist. Fabio Aru — winner of the 2015 Vuelta and a two-time podium finisher at the Giro d’Italia — was known as 'il Cavaliere dei Quattro Mori', or the Knight of the Four Moors. He retired from professional cycling at the age of 31 and now runs an academy named after himself on his native island. There, young riders learn the fundamentals of the sport, with a strong emphasis on cyclocross, Aru’s first love.

9. Aru is certainly famous, but Sardinia has only one true sporting hero: the footballer Luigi Riva, or Gigi for short. He was the legendary, taciturn striker whose goals secured Cagliari’s only national title (1970) and who, despite hailing from the Italian mainland, became a proud Sardinian. He would never leave—not even when Juventus offered 1 billion lire plus nine other players for him. Riva (who passed away in 2024) remains the all-time top scorer for the Italian national team, and colorful murals bearing his likeness can be seen all over the island.

10. A ‘digestivo' to round off this ten-course meal! Limoncello is a common after-dinner drink throughout Italy. Mirto, made from wild berries, is a typically Sardinian specialty. However, the best story belongs to ‘filu ferru’, a clear spirit distilled from grape seeds and skins—often referred to as Sardinian grappa for this reason. The name translates roughly to ‘iron wire’; farmers once used this to mark their illicit batches, which they buried underground to outsmart tax inspectors. After a glass of filu ferru, your day of cycling is effectively over — especially the homemade versions often contain close to 50 percent alcohol.